Who He is: Pierpaolo Piccioli is the Italian fashion designer renowned for his transformative influence on luxury fashion. Born on August 29, 1967, in Rome and raised in Nettuno, Italy, he studied literature at Rome University before pursuing experimental fashion studies at the Istituto Europeo di Design. His career began at Fendi in 1990, where he worked on accessories. In 1999, he joined Valentino alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, initially focusing on accessories. They became co-creative directors in 2008, and Piccioli took sole creative control in 2016 when Chiuri moved to Dior . He served as the creative director of Valentino for 25 years, from 1999 to 2024, before being appointed to his newest exciting role as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2025.
What He Does: During his tenure at Valentino, Piccioli redefined the brand’s aesthetic by blending classic couture with modern elements. He introduced the iconic “Valentino Pink PP,” a vibrant fuchsia shade that became a hallmark of the brand . His collections were celebrated for their inclusivity, featuring models of diverse backgrounds and body types, and for their theatrical flair, often drawing inspiration from art and culture . Piccioli’s designs graced numerous red carpets, with celebrities like Zendaya, Lady Gaga, and Florence Pugh wearing his creations at major events. His commitment to craftsmanship and innovation earned him accolades such as the British Fashion Award for Designer of the Year in 2018 and 2022 .
In March 2024, after 25 years at Valentino, Piccioli announced his departure from the brand. He described his tenure as a continuous journey, stating, “Not all stories have a beginning or an end; some live a kind of eternal present that shines so bright that it won’t produce any shadows”. In May 2025, Piccioli was appointed creative director of Balenciaga, succeeding Demna, who moved to Gucci and Alessandro Michele from Gucci moved to Valentino. Piccioli expressed his admiration for Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy and his intention to honor the house’s heritage while infusing it with his own creative vision, this vision will be a great new chapter for Balenciaga.
Fun fact: While Valentino himself created the famous Valentino signature red, Pierpaolo made chromatic waves himself during his time as Creative Director at Valentino especially at the Fashion week 22/23 fall-winter fashion show, dominated by his signature Valentino pink and black collection. After the fall-winter collection, Pantone color named the distinct fuchsia hue after him, the color named “Pink PP”, also more commonly known as Valentino Pink. Long before the Barbiecore phenomenon took over the world, Pierpaolo was already introducing his vibrant “Pink” collection developed exclusively with the Pantone color institute.
Artistic Vision and Identity
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s artistic vision is a harmonious blend of inclusivity, emotional resonance, and a deep reverence for craftsmanship. His work transcends traditional fashion, aiming to create garments that are both visually striking and rich in meaning.
Piccioli believes that fashion should reflect the diverse tapestry of human experiences. He challenges conventional beauty standards by embracing models of various ages, sizes, and ethnicities, ensuring that his collections resonate with a broad audience. This approach is evident in his haute couture shows, where he has featured women of different body types and backgrounds, emphasizing the importance of representation in fashion.
For Piccioli, the act of creation is deeply personal and intentional. He views each piece as a narrative, a reflection of his values and the stories he wishes to tell. His designs often incorporate elements from various cultures and historical periods, blending them to create something uniquely contemporary. This fusion of influences results in collections that are both timeless and forward-thinking. Color plays a pivotal role in Piccioli’s work, serving as a medium to evoke emotion and convey messages. He employs vibrant hues, such as the iconic Valentino Pink PP, to infuse energy and life into his designs. These colors are not merely aesthetic choices but are imbued with meaning, reflecting the emotional landscape he wishes to share with his audience.
Piccioli views fashion as a powerful tool for expressing values and fostering community. He strives to move beyond the concept of fashion as a mere lifestyle choice, advocating for a more inclusive and value-driven approach. Through his work, he aims to create a space where individuals can find connection and meaning, transcending the superficial aspects often associated with the industry.
Heritage
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s heritage is deeply rooted in the rich cultural and artistic traditions of Italy, particularly those of Rome and its surrounding regions. Born in 1967 in Nettuno, a coastal town approximately 55 miles south of Rome, Piccioli was raised in a modest environment. His parents owned a tobacco shop, and he grew up in a normal family, dreaming of the world of cinema, books, and photographs .
Piccioli’s academic journey began with a study of philosophy at Rome University, followed by a course in experimental fashion at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome. This blend of philosophical inquiry and artistic education laid the foundation for his future endeavors in fashion design .His heritage is also reflected in his design philosophy, which emphasizes the importance of tradition, craftsmanship, and human connection. Piccioli has often spoken about the significance of understanding and respecting the past to inform the future, stating, “If you’re not aware of your past, how can you face your future”. This perspective underscores his commitment to preserving and celebrating Italian heritage through his work.
Despite his international success, Piccioli has remained connected to his roots. He resides in Nettuno with his wife and three children, commuting to Rome for work. His home, described as a sanctuary by the sea, reflects his values of simplicity, authenticity, and family . In summary, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s heritage is a tapestry woven from his upbringing in Nettuno, his education in Rome, and his deep appreciation for Italian culture and craftsmanship. These influences continue to inform and inspire his work as a leading figure in the fashion industry.
Personal Style
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s personal style is a reflection of his philosophy that fashion should be about individuality and authenticity. He often dons a minimalist uniform—black T-shirt, black trousers, white sneakers, and dark sunglasses—which he describes as a “worker’s uniform” that helps him distance himself from his creative role and focus on the work itself. This approach allows him to maintain a sense of humility and avoid the trappings of celebrity .
Despite this minimalist approach to public dressing, Piccioli’s personal wardrobe is more expressive. He enjoys wearing floral shirts and other vibrant pieces in his private life, indicating a preference for color and pattern when not in the public eye . His aesthetic choices extend to his home in Nettuno, Italy, where he lives with his family. The seaside residence is described as a sanctuary that reflects his values of simplicity, authenticity, and family connection .
Controversiality
Pierpaolo Piccioli has been involved in several controversies throughout his career, often stemming from his bold creative choices and the societal themes he explores in his work. In 2016, Piccioli, alongside the-co-creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, faced criticism for their Spring 2016 ready-to-wear collection, which featured African-inspired designs and models with cornrow hairstyles. The predominantly white cast led to accusations of cultural appropriation, sparking a broader conversation about diversity and representation in fashion. In response, Piccioli has since emphasized inclusivity, notably casting a majority of Black models in subsequent shows and drawing inspiration from African art and culture .
In 2021, Valentino’s Collezione Milano campaign featured a self-portrait by photographer Michael Bailey-Gates, depicting him nude with a handbag. The image elicited a strong negative reaction online, with some labeling it as “gender-bending” and “disrespectful.” Piccioli defended the image, stating that “evil is in the eye of the beholder,” and reiterated his commitment to freedom, love, tolerance, and growth. He condemned the hateful comments, framing them as reactions rooted in fear and ignorance .
Most Known For
Pierpaolo Piccioli is most known for being a renowned fashion designer, particularly as the creative director of Valentino, the luxury fashion house. He is celebrated for his work in redefining and modernizing Valentino’s collections, blending elegance with contemporary style, and his influence in the high fashion industry.
Iconic Design Signatures: Known for introducing bold elements like the Valentino Pink PP and the signature Valentino Rockstuds, which have become modern icons in fashio, specially for the Valentino brand.
25-Year Legacy at Valentino: Spanning over two decades at the house, Piccioli’s 25 years at Valentino allowed him to shape a lasting legacy, blending heritage with contemporary relevance and romanticism that we await to see be integrated in Balenciaga now.
The Fendi Baguette bag: launched in 1997, became one of the first true “It bags” and a cultural phenomenon, especially after being featured in Sex and the City. Its compact, under-the-arm silhouette and endless reinterpretations helped define an era of luxury accessories. Though Karl Lagerfeld was the creative director at the time, Piccioli and Chiuri played a key role in designing accessories, and the Baguette was a standout that marked their early impact on fashion.
Least Known For
Pierpaolo Piccioli is widely celebrated for his couture vision at Valentino, yet some of his most creative and culturally significant projects remain relatively under the radar:
Euphoria–Venice–Inspired Art Collaboration: Piccioli partnered with 17 contemporary artists to create 20 unrepeatable dress-works, featuring bold strokes, majestic capes, puffball minidresses, and sculptural hats by Philip Treacy — a poetic fusion of fashion and fine art rarely seen in mainstream media.
Fall 2019 Beijing Showcase: This collection was unveiled not in Paris, Milan, or New York, but at Beijing’s Aman Summer Palace. The location choice limited Western media coverage, making it one of Piccioli’s most overlooked yet globally minded presentations.
Collaboration with Jun Takahashi of Undercover: In a surprising blend of Valentino’s romantic codes with Takahashi’s gothic streetwear, this collaboration revealed Piccioli’s range and willingness to experiment — a project praised by fashion insiders but lesser known to the wider public.
Author Nadia kucukyildiz
I am passionate about fashion since a very young age. I love to design clothes and write about trends, today I work as a fashion assistant and I am based in Finland, where I have a Luxury vintage consignment store.